Moorea – Day 3

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Sharks, punch and the eternal battle with jet lag

🪸 I have made a stunning discovery: I love sleeping under a “moustiquaire.” Not just because it saves me from becoming a human buffet for mosquitoes (which, believe me, is a vital function here), but because it turns my bed into a snug little cocoon of safety. I’ve always liked tight sleeping spaces — airplane lie-flat seats, sailing boat cabins, tents — and it turns out a mosquito net delivers the same cozy satisfaction… plus the added thrill of not getting dengue fever. Win-win.

🪸 However, romance with the moustiquaire aside, jet lag decided to party hard last night. I woke up at the charming hour of 3 a.m., read every scrap of European news (spoiler alert: still chaotic), and tried to go back to sleep around 5. My body generously allowed me another two hours before today’s big plan: a morning of boating and snorkeling. Meeting time: 8 a.m. Location: mercifully, just seven minutes away.

🪸 My trusty new waterproof bag is packed with Very Important Stuff™️ (snorkel gear, sunscreen, emergency chocolate), and I’m sipping a cup of tea, pretending to be an alert and functional adult. The weather forecast optimistically promises “probably less rain than yesterday” — which is like a weatherperson saying, “you may get wet, but hey, character-building!” Temperatures should hover around 28°C but feel like 41°C if the sun comes out, making “underwater” the best place to be.

🪸 At 8 a.m. sharp, we meet Alex, our guide, and two other adventurers. We hop on the boat, and off we go into Moorea’s legendary lagoon. Minutes later, I’m floating among blacktip sharks and stingrays, which sounds terrifying but is actually magical — provided you don’t think too hard about the food chain.

🪸 Back in the boat, we spot a pod of dolphins just casually hanging out, because apparently they like to play here during the day after their nightly hunting expeditions. Dolphins playing, sharks gliding, rays soaring — it’s basically Moana in 4K.

🪸 Next stop: the coral garden. We leap into the water like less-graceful penguins and form a human snake, wiggling through the dazzling coral reefs. The colours, the fish — it’s like swimming inside a living, breathing, kaleidoscope. This, right here, is why we came back to Polynesia: pure, heart-bursting joy.

🪸 Before we can turn into human prunes, it’s time for “apéritif,” Polynesian-style. We head to a tiny motu with powdery white sand and bathtub-warm, crystal-clear water.

Out comes the homemade punch — best served standing in thigh-high ocean while being casually circled by curious manta rays. They kept a polite distance, because even manta rays respect cocktail hour.

🪸 Sadly, noon arrived and with it, reality: time to head back. We steered ourselves toward Les Tipaniers for lunch (because why break a good habit?), and I bravely ordered another Mai Tai in the name of jet lag science.

🪸 Did it work? Nope. Despite a full belly, a morning of snorkeling, a decent punch buzz, and a double dose of jet lag, I still couldn’t nap when we got back. Apparently, my body is locked in a vicious 48-hour loop of “Sleep is for mortals.”

🪸 Thus, here I am again, typing away to the soothing soundtrack of distant waves and birds that sound vaguely like malfunctioning smoke detectors.

🪸 Nothing much planned for the rest of the afternoon — just a dinner reservation tonight, and another adventure day tomorrow. This time, we’ll be swapping flippers for hiking boots. What could possibly go wrong?


Requins, punch et jet lag en mode hardcore

🪸 Grande révélation de ce voyage : j’adore dormir sous une moustiquaire. Non seulement ça m’évite de devenir un buffet à moustiques (ce qui, ici, est une question de survie élémentaire), mais en plus, j’ai l’impression de dormir dans un cocon douillet. Vous savez déjà que j’aime les petits espaces — sièges d’avion en mode lit, cabines de bateau, tentes — eh bien la moustiquaire coche toutes les cases. En bonus : zéro paludisme en cadeau souvenir.

🪸 Ceci dit, la nuit n’a pas été aussi romantique qu’escompté. Merci le jet lag, qui m’a réveillé frais comme un gardon à 3h du matin. Après avoir compulsé toutes les nouvelles d’Europe (spoiler : c’est toujours n’importe quoi), j’ai tenté de me rendormir vers 5h. Deux heures de sommeil plus tard, c’était l’heure de l’expédition du jour : matinée bateau et snorkeling. Rendez-vous : 8h. Lieu : à seulement 7 minutes en voiture. Merci, petits dieux du timing.

🪸 Mon nouveau sac étanche est prêt, bourré de trucs essentiels™️ (masque, tuba, crème solaire, chocolat d’urgence), et je bois un thé en essayant de ressembler à un être humain fonctionnel. La météo, elle, fait du stand-up : “moins de pluie qu’hier”, en langage local, ça veut dire “tu vas peut-être juste finir trempé une fois au lieu de trois”. Température annoncée : 28°C, ressentie 41°C si le soleil fait son show. Bref, l’océan semble être une décision de survie.

🪸 À 8h tapantes, on rencontre Alex, notre guide, et deux autres aventuriers. On grimpe dans le bateau et c’est parti pour 4 heures de magie en lagon. Au bout de cinq minutes, hop, dans l’eau : des requins pointe noire partout autour de nous, et quelques raies pastenagues qui viennent nous zieuter tranquillou. Oui, tout ça en entrée de jeu.

🪸 Retour dans le bateau, on navigue un peu, et là — jackpot — un banc de dauphins ! Ces petits malins chassent la nuit hors du lagon, et reviennent ici pour buller et jouer la journée. Autant dire que nous, on frôle l’évanouissement de bonheur.

🪸 Pas le temps de se remettre, direction les jardins de corail. On saute à l’eau les uns après les autres (plus style otarie que dauphin, mais bon), et on forme une sorte de long serpent humain glissant à travers les coraux multicolores. Un vrai festival de formes et de poissons dignes d’un défilé haute couture sous-marin. C’est précisément pour ça qu’on est revenus en Polynésie : pour replonger dans cette féerie vivante.

🪸 Ensuite, pause “apéritif” digne de ce nom : direction un petit motu avec sable blanc éclatant et eau translucide chauffée à 30 degrés.

Punch maison servi direct dans l’eau jusqu’aux cuisses, pendant que des raies manta dansent tout autour de nous (à distance polie, parce que même elles respectent l’heure du cocktail).

🪸 Midi sonne, et il faut rentrer. Snif. Consolation immédiate : déjeuner aux Tipaniers, encore une fois (on ne change pas une équipe qui gagne). J’ai courageusement sacrifié un deuxième Mai Tai sur l’autel du jet lag. Verdict ?

🪸 Raté. Malgré le combo snorkeling + punch + digestion, impossible de faire la sieste. Mon cerveau est resté coincé sur fuseau horaire “ne jamais dormir”. Résultat : je tape frénétiquement sur mon clavier, bercé par les vagues et le cri des oiseaux locaux (qui, je vous le jure, sonnent comme des alarmes de fumée défectueuses).

🪸 Pas de programme particulier pour cet après-midi. Ce soir, petit dîner réservé. Et demain… nouvelle journée d’aventure, mais cette fois sur la terre ferme. Spoiler : ça risque d’être tout aussi folklorique.


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Moorea – Day 2

DRAFT

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Singing in the rain (and the jacuzzi)

They say when it rains, it pours. In Moorea, it auditions for Broadway.

I woke up at the ungodly hour of 3 a.m., courtesy of either jet lag or the Polynesian rain hammering the roof like it had a personal vendetta. I made a few noble attempts at blogging in the dark (mostly typing “asdfjkl” over and over), then mercifully passed out again around 5 a.m. When I finally rejoined the living, it was tea, toast, and… jam. Jam. I must stress: me eating jam is a rare event, like a solar eclipse or spotting Bigfoot — thanks, diabetes.

After breakfast, we decided to tackle the real first-world problem of the day: the cold jacuzzi.

Armed with equal parts bravery and guesswork, we poked at the electrical board until — bingo — the heater roared to life. We congratulated ourselves like we’d just split the atom and set off, beach bags in hand, hearts full of hope… and quickly realized Mother Nature had other plans.

Torrential rain escorted us to the supermarket, where we stocked up on “essentials” (read: things we forgot yesterday). But as we emerged, shopping bags in hand, a miracle: a tiny, defiant patch of blue sky. We knew we had maybe 15 minutes before the next downpour, so we made a mad dash to Ta’ahiamanu Beach — our beloved beach from two years ago, still beautiful, still willing to have us back despite the weather.

First swim of the year in the South Pacific? Check.

Time spent lounging in paradise? About as long as it takes to butter a croissant.

But it didn’t matter — it was magical.

Back home, the jacuzzi had warmed into a delicious, human-sized soup, and I dove in with the grace of a weary sea lion, beer in hand.

After a quick rinse (trying not to fall asleep standing up), it was off to Les Tipaniers for lunch. Another beloved spot, another hit: the tuna tartare was so fresh it probably still had opinions, and the Mai Tai was strong enough to make me consider singing karaoke right then and there.

We sat by the ocean, hypnotized by a thousand shades of blue and the sound of waves slapping the coral reef — this was the Polynesian dream.

Then, of course, the rain returned with the enthusiasm of a child on a trampoline. We paid the bill and skedaddled home, where the only sensible plan was… nap time. (Pro tip: Polynesian rainstorms make excellent white noise machines.)

When I woke up, the rain had miraculously stopped (for now), and it was time for Aperitif O’Clock, swiftly followed by our long-awaited dinner reservation at the mythical Le Lézard Jaune.

This place is so popular you’d think they were handing out free diamonds. Two years ago, we couldn’t even get through the door without a reservation. This time, we came armed and ready. The owner greeted us with the kind of passionate fish monologue usually reserved for Shakespearean stages — I remember none of it, except that my fish had lived at 200 meters deep, and tasted like it had seen things, beautiful things.

No dessert — just a scenic wobble back uphill, and another gloriously early Polynesian bedtime. Tomorrow? Nautical adventures await. And if the rain plays nice, we might actually stay dry. (Narrator voice: It didn’t.)


Moore – Jour 2

Chantons sous la pluie ( et dans le jacuzzi)

On dit que quand il pleut, il pleut. À Moorea, c’est carrément un casting pour Broadway.

Réveillé à 3 h du matin — merci au choix au décalage horaire ou à la pluie polynésienne qui tapait sur le toit comme si elle avait des comptes à régler. J’ai essayé d’écrire quelques lignes (surtout « azertyuiop » en boucle), puis je me suis rendormi vers 5 h, comme une âme en peine.

Quand j’ai émergé (dernier levé, évidemment), petit-déj simple : thé, tartines… et confiture. De la confiture. Je précise : moi, manger de la confiture, c’est aussi rare qu’une éclipse solaire ou qu’un Bigfoot en tutu — merci, diabète.

Après ce moment historique, nous avons attaqué le vrai défi de la journée : le jacuzzi glacial.

Armés de courage (et d’une bonne dose de hasard), on a bidouillé le tableau électrique. Miracle, le chauffage s’est enclenché ! Gonflés à bloc, nous avons pris la route pour aller tenter notre chance à la plage, malgré un ciel qui ressemblait plus à une apocalypse tropicale qu’à une carte postale.

Première escale : le supermarché, histoire d’acheter tout ce qu’on avait oublié la veille.

À la sortie, miracle bis : une trouée de ciel bleu. Pas le temps de réfléchir — cap sur Ta’ahiamanu Beach, notre toute première plage découverte ici deux ans plus tôt. Nostalgie + éclaircie = sprint de la victoire.

Premier bain de l’année dans le Pacifique Sud ? Validé.

Durée du bonheur ? À peu près celle d’un expresso.

Mais peu importe, c’était magique.

De retour à la maison, le jacuzzi était enfin à température « bain de jouvence ». J’y ai sauté avec la grâce d’un phoque fatigué, bière à la main.

Une douche express plus tard (en évitant de m’endormir debout), direction Les Tipaniers pour le déjeuner.

Un classique qu’on adore : tartare de thon ultra frais (limite encore en train de discuter), Mai Tai musclé, et serveuses aussi piquantes qu’adorables, comme dans nos souvenirs.

Vue imprenable sur la mer, vagues éclatant sur la barrière de corail, camaïeu de bleus à faire pleurer un peintre…

C’est pour ça qu’on vient en Polynésie.

Et puis, fidèle à elle-même, la pluie a fait son grand retour façon douche écossaise.

On a réglé l’addition à toute vitesse, puis on a déclaré la sieste activité officielle de l’après-midi.

Deux heures plus tard, réveil en douceur : il était 17 h, la pluie s’était calmée (provisoirement), et l’heure de l’apéritif sonnait clairement dans l’air.

Notre soirée était réservée dans le très convoité Le Lézard Jaune.

La dernière fois, sans réservation, on avait pu admirer la façade. Cette fois, on avait un sésame. L’accueil est chaleureux, le propriétaire nous a livré une tirade passionnée sur les poissons du jour — je n’ai retenu qu’une chose : mon poisson vivait à 200 mètres de profondeur, et avait sans doute contemplé des mystères sous-marins avant de finir, parfaitement cuit à la plancha, sur mon assiette.

Pas de dessert ce soir : juste un petit retour tranquille jusqu’à la maison, et au lit à l’heure des poules.

Demain, programme nautique — il faudra être en forme !

(Narrateur : « Il ne sera pas sec longtemps. »)

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Polynesia IV

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Moorea – Day 1

or

Wet, wild and wonderfully lost

or

Surviving Moorea: One rainstorm at a time

🐠 Ah, Moorea – the tropical paradise where dreams come true… and where four ferries apparently try to race each other across the Pacific like it’s the Monaco Grand Prix. We boarded the fastest one, on the sound recommendation of a charming taxi driver lady who looked like she’d seen enough ferry dramas to write a Netflix series about it.

🐠The sea, however, had other plans. Let’s just say it wasn’t exactly “smooth sailing” unless your idea of smooth includes ominous clouds, a palpable sense of doom, and the distinct smell of incoming rain. Deliciously cinematic.

🐠Disembarking was an organised chaos of luggage-spotting and people-dodging. Then came the mission: find the Hertz rental car. Easy, right? Hertz was technically visible — about 2 kilometers away across a giant port. Naturally, my brother and I, gallant as ever, left the girls and the bags behind and set off like brave explorers.

🐠 Plot twist: it started to rain halfway there, and we found ourselves clinging to the nearest tree like two particularly damp koalas. Salvation came in the form of a lovely elderly Tahitian lady, who probably thought we were two particularly pathetic tourists. She kindly offered us a ride, saving us from becoming local memes.

🐠 Car acquired. Credit card (and dignity) intact. Time to reunite with our better halves.

🐠 Now, since check-in at our villa wasn’t until mid-afternoon, we embarked on a leisurely island drive… or at least what started as leisurely before the caffeine withdrawal hit. Desperate for a coffee, we even invaded the Hilton Resort like caffeine-seeking missiles. But alas, their bars didn’t open until 11 a.m., and we weren’t emotionally prepared to pay $50 for a buffet just to sit down with a cappuccino.

🐠 Back to the car. Back on the road. Clockwise this time. Destination: Tahoahere Beach House, a restaurant we’d read about and miraculously found after only mild confusion and some aggressive GPS squinting.

🐠 We killed time before lunch wandering amidst lush, exotic vegetation, admiring fruits so mysterious even Google Lens would have thrown in the towel.

🐠 The place itself was dreamy — toes practically in the water, drinks flowing, life was good… until Mother Nature unleashed her fury. First, a dramatic gust of wind that had us considering lifeboat drills, followed by rain so intense it could have been staged by Hollywood. Kudos to the waitresses who saved the day (and our outfits) by whipping down rain shields like pros.

🐠 Post-lunch, we completed the Grand Moorea Tour — not that we could really get lost, since there’s exactly one road around the island. The Hertz guy’s instructions had been very clear:

• “Don’t park under coconut trees unless you want to explain dents to your insurance.”

• “Don’t get lost. You physically can’t.”

Sage advice.

🐠 After a pit stop for the essentials — wine, beer, bread, and… oh yes, milk — we headed for our villa. Getting inside was its own mini-adventure, involving elusive phone signals, hill climbs, and a growing sense of existential doubt. But finally, success! We entered our jungle hideaway: lovely views, tropical greenery, and a villa that maybe forgot to include the second bathroom it had teased online. Ah well, when in paradise, one bathroom must suffice.

🐠 By now, we had been awake for approximately four decades (or so it felt since leaving Paris). A nap wasn’t just a suggestion; it was a human rights issue.

🐠 Waking up in pitch darkness (and slight confusion about what year it was), we made it to dinner at Tiahura Restaurant — one of the few places on Moorea that both existed and served food on a Saturday night. Thank goodness, because the seafood was excellent and exactly what my soul (and stomach) needed.

🐠 By 9 p.m., we were tucked back at the villa, snoring like jet-lagged whales.

🐠 It’s now 3 a.m. Thanks, jet lag! I’m writing these words in the dark, listening to the sound of the rain tip-tapping on the jungle leaves. Today’s agenda? Doing absolutely nothing, preferably with a drink in hand and the faint hope that the weather decides to play nice.

Stay tuned.


🇫🇷

Moorea – Jour 1

Trempés, perdus mais heureux

🐠 Ah, Moorea – ce petit coin de paradis où tous les rêves deviennent réalité… et où quatre ferries semblent s’affronter dans une course effrénée pour traverser le lagon, façon Grand Prix de Monaco.

🐠 Nous avons embarqué sur le plus rapide, sur les conseils avisés d’une charmante chauffeuse de taxi, qui avait manifestement vu assez de naufrages pour donner des conférences TED sur le sujet.

🐠 Le Pacifique, lui, avait décidé de se la jouer dramatique : ciel menaçant, houle digne d’un film catastrophe, et une forte odeur de pluie dans l’air.

Ambiance “Bienvenue à Jurassic Park”, version Moorea.

🐠 À l’arrivée, c’était chasse au trésor pour retrouver nos bagages, puis mission commando pour localiser l’agence Hertz. Facile : elle était théoriquement visible… à environ deux kilomètres, de l’autre côté du port.

🐠 Ni une ni deux, mon frère et moi avons laissé les filles et les valises derrière nous, promettant de revenir vite comme des héros en mission.

🐠 Tout allait bien jusqu’à ce que la pluie tropicale nous tombe dessus, et que notre seule option soit de nous abriter sous un arbre. (Note : la prochaine fois, prévoir un parapluie. Ou un kayak.)

🐠 C’est là qu’une adorable mamie tahitienne, pleine de compassion pour deux touristes aussi misérables, nous a pris en pitié et nous a offert une place dans sa voiture. Reine.

🐠 Cinq minutes et un passage de carte bancaire plus tard, nous récupérions notre carrosse chez Hertz, prêts à retourner chercher nos dames et bagages.

🐠 Toujours trop tôt pour récupérer notre villa, nous avons décidé de faire un tour de l’île. Mission : trouver un café.

🐠 On a reconnu quelques coins visités deux ans plus tôt — explosion de souvenirs et de nostalgie au passage. Trouver un endroit pour boire un café s’est révélé plus complexe que prévu : même au Hilton Resort, où l’on a failli s’incruster au buffet petit-déj’, impossible d’avoir un café sans payer un rein. Les bars n’ouvraient qu’à 11h.

🐠 Retour à la case départ. Nouvel objectif : le restaurant Tahoahere Beach House, que nous avions repéré dans un guide.

🐠 Après quelques détours (et un GPS passablement moqueur), nous avons trouvé l’endroit et réservé une table pour midi.

🐠 En attendant, balade tropicale au milieu d’arbres et de fruits tellement exotiques qu’on hésitait à les toucher sans antidote.

🐠 Midi sonne, retour au resto : les pieds presque dans l’eau, un cocktail à la main, tout allait bien… jusqu’à ce que le ciel décide d’ouvrir grand ses vannes.

🐠 Grosse rafale de vent, pluie torrentielle hollywoodienne, tout y est passé — sauf que les serveuses, ultra-pros, ont abaissé les rideaux de protection en un éclair.

Résultat : restés secs et heureux. Merci, la team Tahoahere.

🐠 Après le déjeuner, on a continué le tour complet de l’île (note : on ne peut PAS se perdre à Moorea, il y a littéralement une seule route).

Petit conseil du gars de chez Hertz :

• « Ne vous garez PAS sous les cocotiers si vous tenez à votre crâne (et à votre caution). »

🐠 Quelques arrêts stratégiques plus tard pour acheter l’essentiel (pain, lait, vin, bière — dans cet ordre de priorité), direction notre villa dans la jungle.

🐠 Trouver la villa n’a pas été une mince affaire : réseau capricieux, indications floues, montées et descentes façon rallye… Mais finalement, miracle !

🐠 Premières impressions très positives : perdus en pleine nature, vue magnifique. Bon, une deuxième salle de bain n’aurait pas été de trop, mais on fait avec.

🐠 plus de 40 heures de voyage non-stop depuis Paris, la sieste est devenue obligatoire sous peine d’effondrement instantané.

🐠 Je me suis réveillé dans une obscurité totale, parfait timing pour le dîner réservé à Tiahura, un resto qu’on connaissait déjà.

🐠 Excellent fruits de mer, service souriant : la soirée s’est terminée en beauté.

🐠 À 21h, extinction des feux. Depuis, merci au jet lag, je suis réveillé depuis 3h du matin, en train d’écrire ces quelques lignes au son de la pluie sur la canopée.

🐠 Programme du jour : ne RIEN faire. Peut-être même sous un rayon de soleil, qui sait ?

À suivre…


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Polynesia III

🇬🇧

DRAFT

Welcome to LAX: Where dreams come true

(and you’re yelled at immediately)

We touched down at LAX exactly as planned — straight into the arms of America’s most welcoming tradition: being shouted at. Nothing says “Welcome to the USA” like a grumpy voice barking, “One line against the wall and wait!” Honestly, it’s incredible how Americans survive this daily without developing a permanent eye twitch. Respect.

Immigration? Survived. Security check #74 of the day? Also survived, though I think they now own a better collection of photos of me than my family.

Finally, after running the gauntlet, I made it to the new Air France lounge. New lounge, same old need for a beer. Despite the ungodly hour (somewhere between midnight and why-are-we-awake o’clock), that refreshing beer felt like a medal of honor. I even managed a solid hour of civilized relaxation before it was time to climb back aboard the metallic sausage tube for my next hop: LAX to PTT.

Same seat. New crew. And — gasp — a crew that actually seemed to know what they were doing! No one tripped over the service carts, and not once did I get handed someone else’s gluten-free vegan lactose-intolerant tofu wrap by mistake. This may very well be a first in the history of aviation. Still, a sternly-worded letter to Air France about the previous leg is absolutely brewing in the background. (Nothing says frequent flyer like a little polite outrage.)Meanwhile, I heroically adjusted my watch to Tahiti time: 9:15 p.m.
My body, however, was stubbornly clinging to French time: 9:15 a.m. the next day.
Basically, my internal clock was screaming “BRUNCH!” while everyone else was preparing to snooze. C’est la vie.

Dinner came (delicious!), followed by a delightfully ridiculous French comedy that was possibly only funny because of the altitude and wine combo. Then I slipped into blissful sleep — because weirdly, sleeping on planes is my hidden superpower. Honestly, give me a seat that reclines more than 15 degrees and I’m out faster than you can say “buckle up.”

I only stirred awake when the smell of fresh coffee wafted through the cabin — a scent so powerful it could raise the dead. I wriggled into my shorts and short-sleeved shirt (big island energy already kicking in), stuffed my jacket into my carry-on with all the elegance of a rugby scrum, and prepared myself for landing.

Touchdown was five minutes late, but who’s counting when paradise is waiting?
(Answer: Absolutely no one.)

Stay tuned: the adventure is just getting started — and my sense of time may catch up with me eventually. Or not. No promises.


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Polynesia II

🇬🇧

Getting there – Part 2

Pit stop with extra Andouilelette

Ah, “transit.” That magical state of being where you’re neither here nor there, but you are legally allowed to spend 24 hours eating and drinking your way through one of the most beautiful cities on Earth. Honestly, if this is what transit looks like, we might start booking all our connections with layovers long enough to qualify as sabbaticals.

We began our day of “not-tourism” with a rebellious 9am breakfast—clearly throwing caution (and time zones) to the wind. The plan was simple: take the RER from the airport into the heart of Paris, land at Les Halles/Châtelet around 10am, and spend the morning pretending we were chic locals instead of well-dressed jet lag grenades.

Our first arrondissement of attack? The 1st, naturally. It’s classic, it’s walkable, and it’s got the kind of Parisian charm that makes you want to immediately invest in a silk scarf and start saying things like “Mais oui, c’est la vie.” A quick flânerie through Samaritaine—half department store, half art installation—and it was suddenly apéro o’clock.

Next stop: Poppy’s Bar. But wait—priorities. On the way, we made a strategic detour to “Chez Denise,” the quintessential Parisian bistro where the walls have stories, the food has soul, and apparently Jacques Chirac once had the munchies. We secured a table, and soon I was elbow-deep in a plate of andouillette. For the uninitiated, andouillette is… let’s call it a “commitment sausage.” Not for the faint of heart, but glorious when done right. Washed it down with a cheerful pichet of Brouilly, chased it with an île flottante roughly the size of the Pont Neuf, and topped it all off with an espresso strong enough to restart a heart.

After that glorious gut-busting experience, we needed a walk. Not just for digestion, but out of sheer guilt. Back through the city, onto the RER, and back to the hotel to collect our bags—which, by some miracle, still fit in our hands despite the food baby I was now carrying.

And then, CDG Val: Take Two. This time, mercifully, it wasn’t rush hour at the human zoo. We glided back to Terminal 2E, feeling like seasoned pros. With our business class tickets in hand, we breezed through the Priority Lane like we’d just won a reality show.

Immigration? Security? Minimal fuss. Lounge access? Oh yes. Air France, take the wheel. We’ve got hours to kill, drinks to sip, and maybe even a pre-boarding shower to pretend we’re still fresh humans before the 22-hour sky-marathon ahead.

And that, dear reader, is where I’m writing this from: lounge seat, feet up, very large whisky in hand, and just enough smugness to call it a holiday already—even though the Pacific is still thousands of miles away.

Next stop: actual Polynesia. Probably. Unless I get too comfortable here.


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Polynesia

🇬🇧

Getting there – Part 1

The 47-hour tango begins

At long last, the day has come. The day we’ve been counting down to ever since we casually decided “hey, let’s go to Polynesia” last year — and then promptly made it our personality.

Yesterday, Air France graciously reminded us of our upcoming odyssey by nudging us to check in. And like the seasoned travel pros we are (read: control freaks about seat selection), we dove in immediately to lock in those carefully chosen business class seats. Travel tip: never trust fate with your legroom.

Now, our boarding pass claims this trip will take a mere 47 hours. That’s not a typo. It’s just that our entire day in Paris counts as “transit.” Apparently, lounging in a hotel bar still qualifies as mid-journey. Who knew?

The drive to Toulouse airport was smooth—almost suspiciously so. No traffic, no wrong turns, not even a forgotten passport. We arrived obnoxiously early (the only proper way to travel), breezed through security, and swanned into the lounge. Not an actual Air France lounge, mind you, but our business class tickets worked their magic, and voilà—free snacks, comfy chairs, and the illusion of importance.

Once aboard our humble Airbus A320, I found myself in the enviable position of row one, seat solo. No neighbour, no elbow battles, just me, my thoughts, and Chantale—the cheffe de cabine—who was everything you want in a flight attendant: kind, competent, and not afraid to gently herd us all into efficiency. The flight to Charles de Gaulle was a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it one-hour hop.

First off the plane, I executed my patented airport power-walk to the baggage carousel (Olympic level, truly),

collected my case, and headed for the CDG Val—Paris’s answer to “how can we make people feel like human Tetris pieces for a few minutes?” After squeezing into the third train that came along, we were sardined into transit bliss for a few bumpy minutes.

Next stop: the Mercure hotel. Check-in was a breeze—we’re All club members, darling—and in no time we were reunited at the bar, sipping our first drinks of the holiday and letting the “we’re really doing this” feeling wash over us.

Early night, of course. We’re pacing ourselves. Because if this was just Day 1…

Polynesia has no idea what’s coming.


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Pope Francis

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The Pontiff who swiped right on modernity

I have to admit I am not a friend of the church(es) and the passing away from the pope leaves me rather cold and uninterested. But since it is non stop in the news which I try to avoid, I had a good look at achievements he might or might not have reached.

Since taking the papal throne in 2013 (well, more like a modest Vatican armchair — he’s not really a throne kind of guy), Pope Francis has steadily carved out a reputation as the Church’s most relatable Supreme Pontiff since… ever.

Dubbed by some as the “People’s Pope”, and by others as “the Vatican’s polite revolutionary”, Francis has certainly shaken things up — not always drastically, but often just enough to make both progressives and traditionalists nervous. That, in itself, is quite the miracle.

So what has he actually done? Here’s a look at the concrete — and occasionally contradictory — accomplishments of the world’s holiest head of state.

🐢 1. The Eco-Pope

In 2015, Francis published Laudato Si’, an encyclical that basically told the world: “God’s creation is not your trash can.” He urged urgent climate action, reminded us that rising seas affect the poor first, and made it clear that being Catholic now means you have to care about the planet — sorry, SUVs.

He even made the Vatican the first fully carbon-neutral country. Sure, it’s the size of a golf course, but hey — symbolically, it’s a giant leap for popedom.

💸 2. Capitalism, Meet Your (Mildly Irritated) Critic

Pope Francis has been consistently critical of unfettered capitalism. He’s not a Marxist — but he definitely thinks Wall Street could use a few Jesus quotes and maybe a conscience.

He’s championed the poor, condemned inequality, and often sounds like the only world leader brave enough to say, “Maybe trillion-dollar fortunes aren’t totally normal?”

🌈 3. “Who Am I to Judge?”™

Possibly the most famous five words of his pontificate. Francis opened the door — just slightly — to a more compassionate tone toward LGBTQ+ people.

While Church doctrine hasn’t changed, the vibe has. In 2024, he even approved blessings for same-sex couples (with several asterisks, disclaimers, and theological fine print). A slow shuffle forward, but a shuffle nonetheless.

🧹 4. Vatican Spring Cleaning (Sort Of)

Francis promised to tidy up the messy Vatican finances. He’s fired shady cardinals, called in accountants, and tried to Marie Kondo the Curia.

Progress has been made, but let’s just say that cleaning centuries of cobwebs from golden vaults is a long-term project. Especially when half the broom closet is missing.

🤝 5. Interfaith World Tour

Francis has been hugging imams, high-fiving rabbis, and bonding with Buddhists. He even signed a historic document with the Grand Imam of Al-Azhar calling for peace, mutual respect, and a shared love of humanity.

He’s basically become the spiritual CEO of Interfaith, Inc.

💬 6. The Synod on Synodality (aka “Let’s All Talk… A Lot”)

In what may be the most Catholic of reforms, Francis invited everyone to talk about the future of the Church. The Synod on Synodality is a multi-year consultation project that’s equal parts group therapy, corporate brainstorming session, and family reunion — with incense.

The most radical part? Laypeople — including women! — are actually being listened to. No final conclusions yet, but stay tuned for a possible ecclesiastical mic drop in 2025.

🚪 7. Pope of the People (and IKEA)

Francis refused the papal palace, ditched the red Prada shoes, and moved into a modest guesthouse. He drives a used Ford Focus. He probably owns three cardigans. He lives like the neighbor who always waters your plants when you’re away — and still goes to Mass at 7 a.m.

😬 8. The Abuse Crisis: Still a Thorny Cross

He’s taken more action than his predecessors, including setting up new laws and accountability mechanisms. But critics say it’s still not enough — especially when it comes to bishops covering up abuse.

Progress has been real, but it’s also been painfully slow and uneven.

🛑 What Hasn’t Changed

  • Women are still not allowed to be priests (or deacons, officially).
  • Priests still can’t marry.
  • The Church’s stance on contraception remains… frozen in time.
  • There is still no confessional app (but give it time).

🧠 The Verdict

Pope Francis hasn’t re-written Church doctrine, but he’s rewritten the tone — and that tone has rippled across the globe. He’s shifted the conversation from rules to mercy, from judgment to inclusion, from palaces to practicality.

He might not be the revolution some hoped for, but he’s certainly the revelation the Church didn’t expect.

And let’s be honest — anyone who gets both Greta Thunberg and Beyoncé fans talking about Catholicism is doing something very right.


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Size matters / La taille compte

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Chronique d’une libération portefeuille-esque

Ce matin, j’ai ressenti une petite bouffée d’excitation qu’on ne vit pas tous les jours — un peu comme retrouver une chaussette disparue depuis 2009, que l’on croyait sacrifiée aux dieux de la machine à laver.

Un SMS m’attendait. Provenance : la mairie. Pas une amende pour stationnement sauvage, pas un rappel fiscal déguisé, non — un message m’annonçant que ma nouvelle carte d’identité était arrivée. Ô joie, ô soulagement administratif.

Première mission du jour : récupérer le précieux sésame. Pas de rendez-vous, pas de file d’attente, pas même un regard accusateur de la dame de l’accueil. En deux minutes chrono, je suis ressorti triomphant, tel Astérix sortant de la maison qui rend fou — sauf que là, c’était rapide.

Mais le clou du spectacle ? Format carte bancaire. Oui, vous avez bien lu. Enfin. Depuis des années, je rêvais de ce jour béni où je pourrais ranger ma carte d’identité sans plier mon portefeuille comme un origami japonais. Fini le format “feuille de route du XVIIe siècle”, place à la modernité ! Mon portefeuille ne contient désormais plus que des choses utiles… enfin, jusqu’à ce que je réalise qu’il ne contient plus rien du tout.

Parce que — accrochez-vous — depuis mars 2025, si vous possédez ce petit bijou de format réduit, vous pouvez accéder au service numérique France Identité. C’est un peu comme Pokémon Go, mais au lieu de capturer un Salamèche, vous capturez votre existence administrative. Une fois l’appli installée, votre compte validé (parce que bon, c’est quand même la France), vous pouvez téléverser votre carte d’identité et votre permis de conduire directement sur votre téléphone.

Et là, choc existentiel devant le miroir : Ai-je encore besoin d’un portefeuille ?

Faisons le point :
✅ Carte d’identité – sur le téléphone.
✅ Permis de conduire – idem.
✅ Cartes bancaires – bien au chaud dans mon portefeuille numérique depuis des années.
✅ Espèces – disparition mystérieuse, probablement avec les chaussettes.

Je regarde donc ma nouvelle carte d’identité, toute belle, toute fine, toute moderne… et complètement superflue. C’est un peu comme acheter un superbe manteau en mai — tu l’adores, mais tu ne vas pas le sortir tout de suite. Sauf effondrement du réseau ou attaque zombie.

Reste un minuscule hic dans ce tableau futuriste : la batterie. Car tout ce système numérique repose sur une chose fragile : ton téléphone chargé. Si la batterie te lâche, te voilà transformé en fantôme administratif, sans nom, sans papier, sans argent — errant au supermarché, essayant de payer ta baguette avec un sourire et une citation de Molière.

Mais malgré tout, je suis prêt à embrasser ce monde nouveau. Tant que j’ai un chargeur dans chaque poche… et peut-être une carte d’identité physique, au cas où.

Edited in Prisma app with Photographer

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A tale of wallet liberation

This morning started with a thrill I hadn’t felt since I found that one sock I thought the washing machine had eaten in 2009.

I received an SMS—from the mairie no less! Not an unpaid parking fine, not a tax reminder (small miracle), but a notification that my brand-new identity card had arrived. Reader, I nearly clutched my pearls.

Task one of the day: retrieve said card. No appointment, no queue, no fuss. I was in and out in less time than it takes to figure out how to open a municipal website. Efficiency level: Swiss watch meets French flair.

Now let me tell you the real kicker: credit card size. Yes, finally, finally, the ID card has joined the 21st century and shrunk to a wallet-friendly format. Gone is the absurd accordion-fold nightmare or the oversized floppy relic that demanded its own purse compartment. This new little gem slips neatly next to my Visa, my coffee loyalty card, and—oh, who am I kidding—into the great digital ether.

Because here’s the juicy twist: since March 2025, if you own this sleek little ID, you can join the futuristic wonderland that is France Identité. It’s like Pokémon Go, but instead of catching Pikachu, you catch your own bureaucratic legitimacy. Once you set it up (and yes, it does involve a few hoops because France must maintain its relationship with red tape), you can upload your ID and driving license to your phone. Voilà! You’re now a legal entity both in meatspace and cyberspace.

Which led me to a moment of existential crisis mid-morning: Do I even need a wallet anymore?

Let’s assess:
✅ ID – now on phone.
✅ Driving license – also on phone.
✅ Credit cards – have been lounging in my Apple Wallet like lazy aristocrats for years.
✅ Cash – what’s that? Some ancient barter relic?

So there I was, looking at my beautiful new ID, sleek and petite… and utterly redundant. It’s like buying a gorgeous new coat in May—you love it, but you’re not going to wear it unless the weather takes a sudden nosedive or society collapses and we return to offline living.

Of course, there is one tiny Achilles heel to this digital utopia: battery life. Because all this high-tech wizardry only works if your phone is actually on. One dead battery, and suddenly I’m a nameless, cardless, license-less specter roaming the boulangerie trying to pay for a croissant with charm and interpretive dance.

Still, it’s a brave new world. And I, for one, am ready to embrace it—so long as I keep a charger in every pocket.


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The week that was – Episode 17

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Of Quantum confusion, bum shots and flying sand

Let’s rewind the highlight reel of Week 17, 2025—a week that began with high-minded physics and ended with flying sand, plant hydration experiments, and an Easter lunch fit for medieval nobility.

🗓️ Monday: World Quantum Day – Or How I Learned to Love the Confusion

In honour of World Quantum Day, I courageously dove into the rabbit hole of intrications. That’s quantum-speak for “things being weirdly tangled in ways that make your brain hurt.” I emerged several hours later, none the wiser and slightly cross-eyed. In short: Schrödinger’s cat is still dead. Or alive. Or possibly on strike.

Also on Monday: my monthly visit from Nurse Jabzilla, who administered the traditional injection du derrière with a needle so large it has its own postal code. Seven days later, I still sit like a cowboy who just lost a bet.

🗓️ Tuesday & Wednesday: Admin, Alerts, and Atmospheric Adventures

In preparation for our upcoming holiday, I ticked off a few administrative boxes. Informed the police online about our travel dates. Let’s hope their “sporadic surveillance” doesn’t involve accidentally arresting the neighbour’s cat again.

By midweek, the weather turned nasty. Mother Nature switched on her wind machine and dumped water like she was cleaning the planet. Which brings us to…

🗓️ Thursday: Mondial du Vent – AKA Sandblasting for Free

My brother and I defied logic and went to Leucate/La Franqui to witness the Mondial du Vent—an extreme sports festival where people attach themselves to large kites and willingly launch into orbit. It was… exhilarating. Also, painful. Who knew airborne sand grains could perform microdermabrasion at 80 km/h?

However, salvation came in the form of a charmingly named restaurant just off the beach: Fish & Blues. Great food, lovely people, and—best of all—zero sand in the soup.

🗓️ Thursday Evening: Zoom Pub Quiz – The Thinking Person’s Excuse to Drink Midweek

As per our post-Covid tradition, we Zoomed in for the weekly Pub Quiz with our mates Chris and Julia. Four brains, one team name, and an internet connection held together with duct tape. We didn’t win, but we did spend a lot of time arguing about which planet is closest to Earth (spoiler: still not Uranus).

🗓️ Friday: Garden Engineering and the Sprinkler That Dreams of Being Permanent

DIY Friday arrived with the noble goal of setting up a “temporary watering system” for the patio plants. “Temporary” being DIY code for “it will live there forever unless something catches fire.” Plants now live in fear of spontaneous drizzle or unexpected drought.

🗓️ Saturday: Market and aperitif before the storm

Did not need much fruits or vegetables but as tradition dictates, we made it to the weekly market. We are in between seasons meaning the summer fruits are not yet available. Saying this, I found and bought my first locally grown melon of the year.

We passed colorful and sunny Place Carnot on the way home but decided we deserved an aperitifand made it to Café Saillant for a couple of pints accompanied by a portion of chips with aïoli and chicken pieces façon cajun.

Soon after we got home the announced hail storm started.

🗓️ Sunday: Easter in the Cité – Knights, Tourists, and a Roast

We walked up to the Cité on Sunday for a proper Easter lunch at Comte Roger, our go-to medieval culinary stronghold. It was packed with cheerful Spanish tourists and at least one couple who clearly thought they were filming a perfume ad.

Returned home in time to catch some of the WEC 6 Hours of Imola on TV. The race was thrilling, though my viewing pattern resembled a heartbeat monitor—wide awake, then… zzz… pit stop… zzz…

🗓️ Conclusion:

Quantum mysteries remain unsolved. My bum still protests. The house may or may not be under police watch. But the week delivered sun, sand, fine food, mild hydration success, and a race to nap through.

All in all: 9.5/10. Would live again—with slightly less sand.

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La semaine qui était – Episode 17

Entre confusion quantique, piqûres fessières et sable volant

Revenons sur les moments forts de la Semaine 17 de 2025 — une semaine qui a commencé dans les brumes de la physique quantique pour se terminer avec du sable dans les chaussettes, des plantes assoiffées et un déjeuner pascal digne d’un banquet médiéval.

🗓️ Lundi : Journée Mondiale du Quantique – ou comment j’ai appris à aimer ne rien comprendre

En l’honneur de la Journée Mondiale du Quantique, j’ai plongé avec bravoure dans l’univers des intrications. C’est le jargon pour désigner des trucs qui restent liés à distance, comme deux chaussettes dans une machine à laver. Plus je lisais, plus mon cerveau fondait. Résultat : le chat de Schrödinger est toujours vivant. Ou mort. Ou peut-être en RTT.

Autre moment fort du lundi : ma piqûre mensuelle dans le postérieur. Administée par l’infirmier(e) avec une aiguille si grande qu’elle pourrait servir d’antenne 5G. Sept jours plus tard, je m’assois toujours avec la grâce d’un cow-boy en fin de rodéo.

🗓️ Mardi & Mercredi : Paperasse, Patrouille et Perturbations Météorologiques

En prévision de notre prochaine escapade, j’ai terminé quelques tâches administratives. J’ai même informé la police via leur site des dates de notre absence. Espérons qu’ils assureront leur “surveillance sporadique” sans arrêter le chat du voisin cette fois-ci.

Mi-semaine, la météo a décidé de basculer en mode “colère divine” : pluie, vent et rafales façon typhon. Ce qui nous mène à…

🗓️ Jeudi : Mondial du Vent – ou comment se faire sabler gratuitement

Avec mon frère, on a tenté l’impossible : aller à La Franqui/Leucate pour le Mondial du Vent — un festival où des gens s’attachent à des cerfs-volants géants pour jouer les cosmonautes amateurs. C’était… décoiffant. Littéralement. Et douloureux. Le sable en plein visage, c’est comme une exfoliation agressive offerte par Mère Nature.

Mais tout n’était pas perdu ! On a découvert un charmant resto à deux pas de la plage : Fish & Blues. Bonne bouffe, belle ambiance, et zéro sable dans l’assiette. Un vrai miracle.

🗓️ Jeudi soir : Pub Quiz sur Zoom – l’excuse parfaite pour picoler un jeudi

Comme depuis le Covid, on s’est connectés avec nos amis Chris et Julia pour le Pub Quiz hebdomadaire sur Zoom. Quatre cerveaux, une équipe, et une connexion Wi-Fi aussi stable qu’un funambule en roller. On n’a pas gagné, mais on a débattu passionnément sur la planète la plus proche de la Terre (indice : toujours pas Uranus).

🗓️ Vendredi : Arrosage Temporaire – ou la botanique selon MacGyver

Vendredi bricolage : j’ai lancé le projet “arrosage temporaire” pour les plantes en pot de la terrasse. Traduction : un système qui va rester là ad vitam aeternam, sauf effondrement structurel. Les plantes ne savent plus si elles doivent se réjouir ou prier pour un orage.

🗓️ Samedi : Marché et apéritif avant la tempête

Nous n’avions pas besoin de beaucoup de fruits ou de légumes, mais comme le veut la tradition, nous sommes allés au marché hebdomadaire. Nous sommes entre deux saisons, ce qui signifie que les fruits d’été ne sont pas encore disponibles. Cela dit, j’ai trouvé et acheté mon premier melon local de l’année.

Sur le chemin du retour, nous sommes passés par la place Carnot, colorée et ensoleillée, mais nous avons décidé de prendre un apéritif et nous sommes allés au Café Saillant pour deux pintes accompagnées d’une portion de frites à l’aïoli et de morceaux de poulet façon cajun.

🗓️ Dimanche : Pâques à la Cité – touristes, chevaliers et rôtis de roi

Balade jusqu’à la Cité dimanche, qui débordait de touristes espagnols enthousiastes. Déjeuner pascal chez Comte Roger, notre bastion gastronomique préféré. Service royal, plats divins, et ambiance digne d’un banquet des Chevaliers de la Table Ronde.

Retour à la maison juste à temps pour regarder un bout des 6 Heures d’Imola (WEC) à la télé. Très excitant, enfin… entre deux siestes impromptues sur le canapé.

🗓️ Conclusion :

La physique quantique m’échappe toujours. Mon fessier crie encore vengeance. La maison est peut-être sous surveillance (ou pas). Mais entre le vent, le sable, le bon vin, les plantes assoiffées, et un bon rôti, cette semaine mérite un solide 9,5/10.

À revivre — mais sans les grains de sable dans les yeux, merci.

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Packing…ish

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A cautionary tale of premature preparation

🎒 So here’s the thing: our big tropical getaway is still weeks away. WEEKS. And yet—brace yourself—I am practically packed. I say “practically” because what I’ve actually done is a bit of a runway show for luggage. We’re talking test-packing. Trial runs. Dress rehearsals for the main event. If you walked into our bedroom right now, you’d think we were hosting an audition for suitcases: “Trolley, you were great, but can you handle cobblestones and a beach? Rucksack, love the energy, but where’s your zipper game at?”

🎒 The good news? We’re heading to a tropical climate. That means no bulky jumpers, no long trousers, no existential coat crisis. Just T-shirts, shorts, and swimwear. Basically, it’s a suitcase full of “I intend to do absolutely nothing and look great while doing it.”

🎒 Even better, we don’t need to pack for three full weeks—because our accommodations come with washing machines! So it’s a minimalist fashion fantasy. A capsule wardrobe of “Is this still clean enough to wear in public?”

🎒 Now, here’s the plot twist: despite the lightweight clothing, my luggage is groaning under the weight of the real essentials. I’m talking toiletries, meds, insulin pens, a snorkel (because I have dreams of becoming a part-time fish), and a terrifying tangle of cables, chargers, and digital appendages that could power a small tech startup. I may only be bringing five T-shirts, but I’ve got enough USB cords to weave a hammock.

🎒 Could I compromise on the gadgets? Absolutely not. What kind of monster travels without their e-reader and backup battery?

🎒 So no, I’m not really packed. But mentally? I’m already halfway to the beach, flanked by a suitcase I may or may not end up taking, and enough travel tech to live-stream the sunrise from my snorkel.

Stay tuned for Part II: “I Forgot My Toothbrush but Brought Three Charging Bricks.”

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Préparation des bagages…enfin, plus ou moins

Chronique d’un enthousiasme prématuré

🎒 Bon, voilà le topo : nos vacances sous les tropiques sont encore dans quelques semaines. DES SEMAINES. Et pourtant — tenez-vous bien — je suis pratiquement prêt. Enfin… “pratiquement” dans le sens où j’ai surtout fait des essais. Des répétitions générales de valises. Si vous entrez dans notre chambre en ce moment, vous pourriez croire qu’on organise un casting de bagages : « Valise à roulettes, très belle prestation, mais tu gères comment les pavés et le sable ? Sac à dos, belle énergie, mais il va falloir revoir ta fermeture éclair. »

🎒 La bonne nouvelle ? Direction climat tropical. Donc pas de pulls encombrants, pas de pantalons longs, pas de dilemme du manteau. Juste des T-shirts, des shorts et des maillots de bain. En gros, une valise pleine de « Je ne vais rien faire et je compte bien le faire avec style. »

🎒 Encore mieux : inutile de prévoir trois semaines de fringues — nos logements sont équipés de machines à laver ! C’est donc le rêve du minimaliste. Une garde-robe capsule composée de vêtements qu’on évaluera chaque jour avec la question fatidique : « Est-ce que c’est encore assez propre pour être porté en public ? »

🎒 Mais voici le rebondissement : malgré les vêtements légers, ma valise commence déjà à gémir sous le poids des vrais essentiels. J’ai nommé : les produits de toilette, les médicaments, les stylos à insuline, un tuba (car j’ambitionne une carrière secondaire de poisson) et une montagne de câbles, chargeurs et accessoires numériques capables d’alimenter une start-up entière. Je n’emporte que cinq T-shirts, mais j’ai assez de câbles USB pour tresser un hamac.

🎒 Compromis sur la tech ? Jamais. Quel genre de barbare part en vacances sans liseuse et batterie externe ?

🎒 Donc non, je ne suis pas vraiment prêt. Mais mentalement ? Je suis déjà à moitié sur la plage, avec une valise que je n’ai probablement pas choisie, et un arsenal électronique digne d’un centre de contrôle de la NASA.

Rendez-vous pour l’épisode 2 : « J’ai oublié ma brosse à dents mais j’ai trois chargeurs secteur. »

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